I have made two new PCBs, a 16 LED-scanner card and a new version of the 555 TARDIS, looks pretty good I think!
16-LED CYLON/KITT-Scanner v1.0 - front
16-LED CYLON/KITT-Scanner v1.0 - back
I have made two new PCBs, a 16 LED-scanner card and a new version of the 555 TARDIS, looks pretty good I think!
16-LED CYLON/KITT-Scanner v1.0 - front
16-LED CYLON/KITT-Scanner v1.0 - back
Yesterday I finally continued the build of the remote control for fireCrow v2.0. It was quite some time since last I worked with the firing system now so I thought I'd better get cracking!
The remote control box with buttons, one of the two rotary switches,
a key switch (on the short side beneath the red buttons), and a vinyl sticker
Finally we are up and running again, and I got some new parts in the mail yesterday!
Starting to look like a ball!
For the moment I have to glue the bows together, but that's OK.
Maybe in version two I'll manage to make them snapable.
If your height gauge on/zero/off button stops working, there's no need to send your tool to a repair man and pay plenty of cash to get it fixed!
Before doing anything you'll need to remove the battery. Then you take a X-Acto knife (or similar) and carefully peel of the ISO sticker on the backside of the tool.
Beneath the sticker you'll find the hidden screws for the plastic hood.
I got a couple of new pieces today but I'm not completely satisfied!
I've misunderstood how the printing resolution works. I thought it would affect the surface roughness, but not the measurements.
This resulted in too thin material at the connection points
I've been doing a lot of work since last time and there have been some changes in the design as well!
After I assembled a couple of parts in FreeCAD I realized that I had miscalculated (in my head) the size of some of them 🙁
I had to flip the base plate upside down to make room for the steering cradle and remove the friction wheels, because they wouldn't fit anymore. I also had to make the propel wheel larger to get better grip and to make the ball go a bit faster.
The approximate speed is now somewhere about 10 km/h, which is a quite good speed I think.
The base plate front view - with motors and steering craddle and its servo
Another post is up, about the propel system this time!
I have this idea that the ball will be driven with a motor and a small wheel inside a bigger ring, with a friction wheel underneath.
Sorry for my bad sketch
Finally I think we nailed the printing tolerance measurements! We also changed from white to black ABS filament, which seems to behave more accurately than the white one does.
I added some snap connections and push fittings to the new test piece so we can see if the printer has an accurate repeatability
Today I got my first "missing" parts to propel my ball 🙂 I'm going to make a simple and cheap speed controller by using two 30A brushed plane ESC, less than $9 each.